Keens Steakhouse ★9.3

Keens: Drink Single Malt Under Ninety Thousand Pipes

Every city has bars that fake a past; Keens has the real thing hanging from its ceiling. Roughly ninety thousand churchwarden clay pipes — once smoked by regulars from Babe Ruth to Albert Einstein — float overhead while you work through one of New York’s deepest single-malt lists. The steak is legendary, but the drinking history alone justifies the pilgrimage.

History

Opened in 1885 beside the theaters of Herald Square, Keens is the sole survivor of that entire district era. It ran a gentlemen’s pipe club whose membership reads like a century of American headlines, barred women until the actress Lillie Langtry sued her way in — and won — in 1905, and keeps the playbill Lincoln held at Ford’s Theatre framed upstairs. The James Beard Foundation named it an American Classic.

What to Order

The mutton chop is the icon: a saddle of lamb around twenty-six ounces, seared dark, carried out like a trophy. Dry-aged porterhouse and prime rib hold the beef flank; Dover sole answers for the sea. At the bar, order a dram from the towering scotch selection or the house bloody mary sharpened with balsamic — then take your time. Everything here rewards not rushing.

The Space

A warren of dark, low-lit rooms with pipe-lined ceilings, oil portraits, playbills and a century of memorabilia — the Lincoln Room and Bull Moose Room feel like private clubs that forgot to lock the door. The long bar up front is its own destination, all worn wood and whisky light.

Who It’s For

Whisky devotees, history nerds, anyone marking a serious occasion — and smart diners who know the bar room welcomes walk-ins when the dining room is booked solid.

Good to Know

What exactly is the mutton chop? A massive double-cut saddle of lamb, roasted and served with its own jus — one order comfortably feeds two alongside sides.

Can I walk in without a reservation? The bar room seats walk-ins with the full menu; the dining rooms usually need booking days ahead.

How serious is the whisky list? One of the deepest single-malt collections in the city — ask the bartenders, they steer well.

Is there a dress code? None enforced — you will see suits and jeans side by side; business casual fits the room best.

Is lunch easier than dinner? Considerably — same kitchen, calmer rooms, and the legendary chop is available at midday.

Opening hours